The intense summer heat made us of dream of the light snowfall around the port last winter. It had been hot almost everyday since June and being cold became a vague memory and something that we looked forward to feeling again.
(Winter scene photo - Barry Gordon, Barge "Eleanor)
When canals began announcing early closing dates because of a lack of water, we pointed our bow towards Roanne and chugged along at a steady pace. This would be our 4th winter in Roanne, and we did not want to risk being locked out by canal closings.
We had planned to return to Roanne early, pack up the car and finish our summer vacation in Italy, but somehow time drifted away and that never happen. Instead, Roanne welcomed us with its warm heart, and as the summer heat softened into fall warmth, we found ourselves enjoying the company of friends, old and new.
Cruising is always a pleasure, but so is coming home again.
We wouldn't have believed this while we were back in San Francisco working full time, but just giving up your job doesn't insure that you will have extra time on your hands. That doesn't seem possible, but it is true. Somehow chores and social events rush in to fill up all of your newly found free time. In our case, it probably doesn't help that without our alarm clock we get up later, or that breakfast is now a leisurely meal instead of one eaten on the run.
Without jobs we don't need to wear watches anymore, but we couldn't do without our calendar. Our calendar is still an important tool, it helps us keep track of the days of the week. Without a job it is easy to mix them up, because Saturdays and Tuesdays flow by at exactly the same speed.
The seasons dictate how our time is spent. While cruising, our days are full of travel and discovery, and once we return to our home port, we are busy with boat maintenance and improvements. No matter the season, we always need our calendar to help us know what month it is, and whenever we hear about an interesting upcoming event we jot it down, because otherwise it is just too easy to miss something when the days flow by so fast.
La Table Ouverte and Le Salon de la Gastronomie were two recent food events here in Roanne that we might have missed if we hadn't marked those days and then checked the calendar.
La Table Ouverte was held at the covered market place and it was an evening event where local food producers, from vintners to restaurateurs, provided samples to a hall full of people jostling around with a plate in one hand and a wine glass in the other. The crowd was jolly and joking, a happy and well fed group of people, so even as crowded as it was, it was also fun. We went with friends, who we kept losing and finding again with the ebb and flow of the evening and we all agreed that it was a great event.
Le Salon de la Gastronomie lasted all weekend. It was held in a large hall in Le Coteau, the town just across the Loire River from Roanne. We went with friends on a Saturday afternoon and we liked it enough to go back again on Sunday. The hall was full of booths with vendors from all over France and we not only found some great wines, but we also found great hot dogs from Alsace, where the German influence means that these will taste more like American hot dogs. American hot dogs are something that we had been looking for ever since we started our Monday Night Football parties.
During the winter, Tuesday nights have a big red circle around them. This year, with Californians as our next door neighbors, Monday Night Football, which is broadcast here on Tuesday nights, has become an important American cultural event for all of us.
We have hosted a few World Cup Rugby parties with English and New Zealand neighbors, but it's good old American football that really makes us feel at home.
Actually, we probably don't need to look at our calendar to remember Tuesday nights, because our neighbors always show up right on time with big smiles on their faces. That's because this has become a favorite night for all of us. It is when we all comfortably slip back into our own culture. For one night a week we understand all the rules and the familiarity relaxes us.
Back home, we had 49er season tickets and we always tailgated with friends before the game. We took turns bringing the food, but whoever was in charge always brought something healthy. It's different here in France.
When you live in a foreign country, no matter how happy you are to be there, you miss your own culture, and on Tuesday nights we enjoy wallowing in ours.
Foods that remind us
of home have become favorite treats, just because of their warm and fuzzy memories. That's why our weekly football menu is hot dogs and Pringles, with ice cream bars as a 4th quarter treat.
Watching the fans, reminds us of much we like Americans. Since we have been in France, we have come to appreciate the friendliness and warmth of Americans that we meet in our travels. This year we were lucky enough to have six other American boaters around our Thanksgiving table and it was wonderful to enjoy our favorite holiday with people who understood and relish all of the traditions.
Living in France has also given us a greater appreciation of the endearing little quirks of our culture. What we might have once considered silly or annoying, we now find charming. Who couldn't love a fan who could wear a silly hat with such confidence.
As soon as the local firemen come by with their 2004 calendars, we'll buy one so that we can put a big red circle around Superbowl Sunday and all of the other events that we won't want to miss next year.
The annual winter festival blew in overnight like a snow storm. We knew that La Foire Froide would arrive, but it was still surprising to see a blanket of booths dusting the streets around our port when we woke up that morning.
Martine and Otila, at the café across from our barge, had prepared a special lunch menu and they knew that it would be a busy day. They opened their doors at 4:00 am to provide coffee for the vendors arriving early to set up their booths, and they were snowed under by customers for the rest of the day.
Looking out the wheelhouse windows, we realized that we were boothed in by the festival that fell on the port during the night. A nearby vendor noticed us and came over to ask if he could fill a container with water, while we were talking with him, we noticed that another vendor had plugged into our neighbor's electric box. They were away, so we searched for Franck, the weekend port captain and turned the problem over to him. His solution was to turn the problem over to the police patrolling the festival. When they arrived, the vendor came over and offered twenty euros for a days worth of electricity, saying that he needed to have the power for his refrigerators. The police seemed okay with this idea and when we looked over at Franck, who was standing behind the vendor, he was busy shaking his head up and down. We accepted the money for our friends, the vendor said thank you and invited us to come over later for free andouilette. These are sausages made of chitterlings and served hot, a favorite among the French, but a taste we have not yet acquired.
At noon, we passed on the andouilette offer and headed over to the Santa Monica for lunch.
They were serving Tripe à la mode, (the stomach lining of a calf), or Tête de Veau, (which means head of veal), not yet home cooking to us, but they are to the French, and we went for lunch just to support Martine and Otila, who have become friends over the years that we have been moored across the street from their café, Le Santa Monica.
The normally quick trip over to the café was suddenly made difficult with all of the booths and the crowds blocking our way. We stepped gently over the bird cages at the back of a booth selling beautiful birds and fish, and we stopped when the crowd did to watch someone demonstrating one of those amazing kitchen devices that you see on TV. When we finally made it to the café and opened the door, we were shocked to see how many people were inside. It was just noon, but the room was already packed with customers.
Extra tables had been added in every available space and there were no empty seats. The improvised staff consisted of Martine and Otila, Jacky, their friend who is also our port captain during the week, Martine's friend Gui, Martine's mom and teenage daughter. There was one young girl working as the waitress, she was probably the only one getting paid.
We joked with Otila at the bar as we came in and when she didn't give us her normally huge smile, we looked around and saw that Martine and Jacky also were missing their smiles, everyone looked unusually stressed. We decided that we should skip lunch and offer our help instead.
We went into the kitchen to tell Martine that we would be happy to help and a nano second later we were at our dishwashing stations in the kitchen and behind the bar. Relieved of her job doing dishes in the kitchen, Martine's mom sat down with weary sigh and put her feet up. Otila, who had been working alone behind the bar since before dawn, was delighted to finally have some help.
Since the café found itself in the heart of the busy festival, there was a never ending stream of new lunch customers, and we worked hard to keep up with the returning dirty dishes and wine glasses. Drying the dishes became a problem when all of the dish towels became ringing wet, so we dashed home through the crowds, tossed their wet towels in our dryer and grabbed our clean supply and some aprons.
Back at work, we found our rhythm and with any lull in dish washing, drying or pot and pan scrubbing, we helped clear and clean the tables, delivered coffee to customers or anything else that we saw needed doing.
We washed, we dried, dishes went out clean and came back dirty. We were part of a team serving a good and hearty lunch to appreciative customers, and we were enjoying every minute of it. French swirled around us as orders were called into the kitchen. Crossing the café brought requests for another carafe of wine or coffees all around. Jacky called us over to speak English at different tables when customers didn't believe him when he told them that we had come all the way from San Francisco just to do the dishes in a little café in France. We worked, we joked with the customers, we fell in love with the ambiance of the day.
When the lunch rush was finally over, we dished up our own plates, choosing more potatoes than Tête de Veau and sat down at the kitchen table with our co-workers to enjoy the lunch that we had come in for more than three hours earlier. The cozy atmosphere of the kitchen added to the enjoyment of our meal, even with all of the interruptions as new customers kept arriving. We finished up a new round of dishes before we left to explore the fair.
Opening the door, we were swept into the crowd. Balloons in the shapes of horses, bunnies, dolphins and Père Noël floated above the crowd. Traffic jams occurred at popular booths or when families ran into friends and everyone had to kiss everyone else hello. We stopped to watch demonstrations, to taste sausage samples or to watch South American Indians in full feather head dress dance to the music of their CDs. We made a full circle and ended up back at the café's outdoor tent for a mulled wine. Some friends from our gym came into the tent and after a vin chaud together, we walked into town with them.
The vendors were packing up as we returned to the port that evening, and when we arrived at the café we found that there was more work to do. Martine's mom and daughter had gone home for dinner, and the young waitress kissed us goodbye as she was on her way out.
This time we helped put away all of the extra tables and chairs, walking them outside and around the corner to the storage room. This was a rather long trip with the tent blocking the shortest route, so it took several of us many trips to get everything neatly stored away.
Customers were still drifting in for coffee and drinks, but most of the hard work was done. A few people lingered at the tables with wine or hot chocolate, and Martine and Otila were both now tending the bar. They were exhausted, but we saw a spark of interest in their eyes when we offered to call for some pizzas, so we went back to our barge for the take out menu. Everyone ordered their own small pizza, and we ordered a couple of extras for whoever might suddenly arrive.
Martine's boy friend brought out a special bottle left over from his son's recent wedding, a delicious mixture of rosé wine and cherries, and we sipped our drinks as everyone finally had a chance to pull up a chair and relax around the bar.
Street cleaning crews passed in front of the café removing all evidence of the winter festival. It was disappearing as quickly as it had arrived. People kept drifting in, including the bar owner from around the corner followed by his little black dog. This little dog loves to take himself on walks around the port and he is quite well known for his escapades.
When the pizzas arrived the room filled with warm and cosy aromas, and everyone moved over to one long table where we spread out the boxes and ate without dirtying any new dishes. The little black dog and Martine's dog placed themselves under the table to take advantage of falling tidbits and everyone ate in a comfortable silence.
For us, the whole day had been perfect. For this one day in France, we belonged in a way that we had not experience since we left home with all of its comforts and familiar ways. It had been a day full of friendship, working side by side with people that we have come to know and love. There were so many moments during the day where we smiled to think that we had suddenly found ourselves happily working as dishwashers. No one would ever believe that such a simple job could make us so happy, but it wasn't the job, it was the feeling of satisfaction that you get when you reach out to help a friend. And for us it was also being part of a group of French friends.
We were the last to leave that night because we wanted to help Martine and Otila finish what had been a very long and difficult day for them. We kissed them good night, and as we went out the door the street sweepers passed us going in. The sweepers were ready for their nightcap and our friends would have to wait just a little while longer before they could close up after a long day and go home.
Crossing the equator, summer instead of winter, exploring another continent, being near an ocean again, visiting barging friends at their home in Cape Town, these were some of the irresistible reasons that brought us to South Africa this winter.
We packed light because summer clothes don't take up much room and we wanted to leave room for shopping in South Africa because of the good dollar/rand exchange rate.
After 24 hours of travel on trains and planes, our friends picked us up at the Cape Town airport and our African adventure began.
In Cape Town, we were much closer to the South Pole than we were to our home town of San Francisco
South African beaches were beautiful and this one on False Bay was colorful too
At a beach outside of Cape Town, we stopped to watch some kite-surfers with Table Mountain in the background. The "tablecloth" of fog was lying on top of the "table"
At Simon's Town, we walked along the beach with the penguins
After two weeks in Cape Town, we set out along the Garden Route on the Indian Ocean. Here at Cape Agulhas we were standing on the southernmost tip of the continent of Africa, between the Indian and Atlantic Oceans
The Cape Agulhas lighthouse watches over this area on the tip of Africa which is known as the "Graveyard of Ships"
At a reserve along the Garden Route, we fell in love with the elephants
After our tour of the Indian Ocean Coast we traveled up the Atlantic Coast were we stayed in the peaceful fishing village of Paternoster
Paternoster reminded us of Greece in its simple beauty and the peaceful atmosphere
We stayed a few days at the Oystercatcher's Haven and we could have stayed forever
South African wines were a fine finish to a good day in a beautiful place
After a month in South Africa, we returned to winter in France for a week while we repacked our suitcases for a trip to San Francisco and Hawaii
We stayed in San Francisco for a week before and a week after our Hawaiian vacation. The weather was wonderful and we enjoyed being in "The City" again
We flew to Kauai to attend a family wedding
Our niece Judy and her fiance Ron said their vows in a beautiful Hawaiian ceremony
We were so happy to be able to be with Judy and Ron on their wedding day
Their reception dinner was held on the terrace of an old plantation with hula dancers preforming on the grass below
It was wonderful to be able to be there with the rest of our family to celebrate Judy and Ron's marriage
After a week on Kauai visiting family, we flew to Kona to visit friends and enjoy another week of beautiful Hawaiian sunsets...
...and Mai Tai's
As always, our vacation went by too quickly. It was time for us to say "Aloha" to our friends and to head off into the sunset, back to our real life in France