| April 2002 |
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Early one Sunday morning, we put our suitcases into the car and headed south for our spring vacation. The South of France with its promise of warm sunshine was calling to us. Actually it was boating friends, renting a house in Antibes for the winter, who called and invited us to come for a visit.
A reasonable level of pre-season tourists were already filling the streets along the beach towns of the Cote d'Azur, and we were happy to have arrived early in the afternoon after a pleasant drive. The warm hospitality of our friends and the spring sunshine made us happy to be back in Antibes.
Strolling together along the busy harbor with our friends, we stopped to look at the huge yachts, and we each selected our favorite. Seeing large crews at work on each boat made us all jealous, not for the yachts, but for the workers.
Toby, the only one among us who already has his own crew, picked out the yacht with the helicopter on top.
After a couple of nice dinners with our friends, and a great day of sightseeing on the way to and from lunch in San Remo, Italy, we left Antibes for points west.
Traveling with no set plans, we headed towards the Canal du Midi. Beziers, with its step locks, was our first stop. We used our French guide books, Gault Millau and Guide de Charme, to call ahead each day to reserve a room as soon as we decided where we might stop for the night. This and the fact that we had to live out of our suitcases made this trip a very different experience than traveling on the canals by barge. Traveling by barge means that you stop for the night when you see a pleasant mooring, and instead of packing a suitcase you bring along everything including the kitchen sink.
We loved our hotel on the canal in Castelnaudary, and found it a very relaxing stop. Like many of the small towns along the canal the restaurants and tourist related businesses were not yet open for the season, so we had lunch and dinner in the only restaurant open near the canal. We were greeted like regulars after the second day.
In Carcasonne, while checking into our hotel, we met an American couple who had gladly moved to Paris last year on a work assignment. Since we kept bumping into them all over town, we decided to have dinner together. Conversation, of course, revolved around adventures with the language and the culture.
Dinner and breakfast are served in common with the other guests. Forced to converse in French with our dinner companions, we were happy to be able to put our winter lessons into practice.
The next morning, after looking at a local map with the auberge owners, we planned our day. They told us not to miss the market in Villereal and they were right, it was charming.
The Chateau Biron was beautiful and although it was closed for the day, we loved reading all of the quotes from the town's people on the living war memorial.
We stood on the bluff in the bastide town of Domme and admired the view of the Dordogne River and Valley.
On the last night of our vacation, we stayed in another wonderful B&B, again with a table d'hotes. At the Relais de Lavergne, dinner was with the owners as well as the guests and again we were the only non-French. We decided that this would be a very enjoyable way to learn how to speak French.
The next morning, we said goodbye and waved to the donkeys in the field as we headed back to our boat.
It was a great vacation, and now we are ready to finish our spring painting before we begin another season of cruising along with the butterflies. |















